Knitting is a craft that has been passed down through generations for centuries. Today, it is both a creative hobby and an important part of the fashion world. However, tracing its exact origins remains difficult. Who invented knitting, and where did it first appear? In this article, we explore the history of knitting and how this traditional craft has evolved over time.
The origins of knitting
Historians agree that knitting is an ancient textile technique, although the exact date of the earliest knitted pieces remains uncertain. The precise origins of knitting are still difficult to determine with certainty.
The earliest knitted pieces discovered
The ancient textiles discovered over the centuries have helped researchers better understand the history and development of knitting. Some very early textile techniques already used interlocking loops and therefore shared certain similarities with later knitting methods. Complex textile-making techniques can also be found in pre-Columbian fabrics from Peru.
Textiles and tools discovered in Egypt, particularly within Coptic communities, have also provided important clues about the development of knitted and knitting-like techniques. A number of historical textile pieces dating from the first centuries AD are now preserved in museum and textile collections.
Who invented knitting?
It is difficult to identify a single person as the inventor of knitting. The exact geographical origin of the craft has not been established either. Some theories connect knitting with older looped textile techniques such as the Scandinavian method known as nålebinding.
A major step in the mechanisation of knitting came in 1589, when the English clergyman William Lee developed a knitting machine. His stocking frame was designed primarily for making stockings and similar garments.
Where does the French word “tricoter” come from?
Historically, the French verb “tricoter” had several meanings. In the 15th century, it was associated with the word “trique”, meaning a stick or club. It was only later that “tricoter” became commonly used to describe the act of creating loops with knitting needles. The word was also used figuratively to describe rapid leg movements. Historically, it could therefore have several meanings:
- Tricoter: to make fabric by creating loops with needles;
- Tricoter des jambes: to run or move the legs quickly;
- Tricoter les côtes: an older expression that is no longer commonly used.
Other explanations link the French term to the name once given to a small stick or knitting needle.
The history of knitting through the centuries
The exact period in which knitting first appeared is difficult to establish. Surviving textiles nevertheless show that related looped techniques developed very early, while knitting itself became increasingly widespread during the Middle Ages. The craft has continued to evolve ever since.
Knitting in Late Antiquity: textiles from Egypt
Textile discoveries from Egypt and Coptic communities play an important role in research into the early history of knitting. Some surviving pieces date from the first centuries AD. However, because different looped textile techniques can look very similar, it is not always easy to identify every historical piece as true knitting in the modern sense.
The Middle Ages: knitting spreads across Europe
Several theories suggest that knitting techniques reached Europe through trade routes and cultural exchanges with the Islamic world. The Iberian Peninsula may have played an important role in this process. By the Middle Ages, knitted textiles were becoming increasingly widespread across different parts of Europe.
The craft later developed throughout Northern and Central Europe, with different regions creating their own patterns, materials and traditions. Wool was commonly used, while knitting needles could be made from wood, bone and later metal.
Knitting in France from the 14th to the 16th century
In France, knitting gradually developed into an organised craft and commercial activity during the late Middle Ages and early modern period. The production of hats, stockings and other knitted garments became increasingly important. The French hosiery trade, known as “bonneterie”, included craftspeople producing a variety of knitted goods.
During the 16th century, knitting could also provide an additional source of income for many households. The arrival of mechanical knitting machines at the end of the century then transformed production. William Lee’s stocking frame, developed in 1589, made it possible to manufacture certain knitted items faster and in larger quantities.
Knitting in the 18th century
During the 18th century, the hosiery and knitting industries continued to develop in France. Mechanical knitting frames became increasingly common in textile-producing regions and were used both in small workshops and by home workers. Areas such as Troyes and Champagne became important centres for the French hosiery industry.
As mechanisation progressed, larger production sites gradually developed, particularly in Champagne, Nîmes and Lyon. Hand knitting nevertheless remained widespread and continued to be practised both in everyday households and among wealthier members of society.
New types of knitting machinery were also developed during this period, allowing manufacturers to create a wider range of knitted structures and further advancing textile production.
Knitting in the 19th and 20th centuries
The 19th century was marked by the increasing mechanisation of knitting and the development of new knitting machines. However, many stages of garment production, particularly shaping and finishing, continued to be completed by hand.
A variety of machines were developed or improved during the 19th century, including:
- English knitting frames: developments based on earlier mechanical knitting machines;
- French knitting machines: adaptations and developments of existing systems;
- Drum knitting machines: machines using specialised mechanical control systems;
- Warp knitting machines: machines that work differently from traditional hand knitting and can produce stable knitted fabrics that are less prone to laddering;
- Rib knitting machines: machines using multiple needle beds to produce ribbed and more elastic structures;
- Circular knitting machines: machines with needles arranged in a circle, particularly useful for producing seamless or tubular knitted garments.
From the second half of the 19th century onwards, production increasingly moved towards larger factories. During the 20th century, knitting machines became progressively more automated and were able to produce a wider range of garments, including jumpers, jackets, gloves, stockings and underwear.
Developments in dyeing techniques also transformed knitting. A wider range of yarn colours opened up new possibilities for patterns and fashion. During the 20th century, many fashion designers incorporated knitwear into their collections. One notable example is André Courrèges, who presented a collection strongly focused on knitwear in 1969.
Knitting: a craft that remains popular today
Knitting has continued to evolve over the centuries and remains popular today. Knitted garments and accessories are especially common during the colder months. Hats, scarves, gloves, cardigans and wool jumpers combine warmth and comfort with a wide variety of styles. Famous fashion designers such as Gabrielle Chanel also helped bring knitwear into modern fashion.
Today, knitting is also an accessible and much-loved creative hobby.
Online tutorials, knitting patterns and beginner kits make it easier than ever to learn step by step and create your own handmade projects. Yarn, knitting needles and other supplies are now widely available both online and in specialist craft shops.
